How to fix a Eureka Boss Vacuum that won’t start

When vacuuming the other day, the Wii sensor cord got sucked into our vacuum cleaner, a Eureka Boss model 4870. Once the cord was unwound the vacuum cleaner would no longer turn on.

I was thinking, blown fuse maybe? I didn’t know where it would be though, so I went to Google and began my search. I am writing this for some poor soul who may be looking for the same answer, because I found it rather difficult to find what I was looking for.

Basically there are several reasons your vacuum might stop. If your hose is clogged, or your bag is too full. This happened to us once before. Not my current problem. Another reason reported by a bunch of people was a thermal fuse. Unfortunately once the vacuum has had a chance to cool down, this should reset itself. This also wasn’t my problem.

I searched in vain for any sort of fuse I could change or breaker I could reset. I found information about some sort of reset button, but again, couldn’t find any real information about it or where it would be. I never did find out if there really was one.

The user guide said if it won’t turn on after allowing it to cool off then you needed to bring the vacuum in for service.

Then I found one person that said they removed the cover the on/off switch is mounted in and the wires going to the switch were melted. I figured that sounded promising. I removed the cover and the white wire leading to the switch was burned right through. I guess that is their version of a fuse. It looked like perhaps it had actually been touching the switch and had burned through at the point where they were touching.

I stripped the two ends of the wire, soldered them together, and sealed them with a piece of shrink tubing. The vacuum is working as good as new.

Next up… how to fix a Wii sensor cord after it has been sucked into a vacuum.

12 Responses to “How to fix a Eureka Boss Vacuum that won’t start”

  1. This was exactly my problem (minus the Wii controller) and fixing the wires on the switch did the trick!

    The plastic in the handle is getting brittle. One of the screw mounts broke off while putting it back together and some other little pieces flaked off while it was open. I suspect I will need to buy a new handle assembly soon.

    Thanks for the fix!


  2. Our Eureka Boss died yesterday for no apparent reason…removed the cover for the on/off switch. Sure enough, the white wire was burned through. Must be a design flaw – or like you say, Eureka’s version of a fuse.

    Anyhow, thanks for the fix!!!!

    -Roger K

  3. My problem was almost the same but it made a sound like something broke and now the brush roll Got loose, doesn’t work. Any advise?

  4. You probably need to replace your belt. There is a thin rubber belt that turns the brush. It connects the brush to a motor and the belts need to be changed periodically.

  5. Thanks for the info! Just had to leave a note that I lol’d a lot at the end of the article…

    “Next up… how to fix a Wii sensor cord after it has been sucked into a vacuum.”

  6. Same problem, so I opened it up. Instead of the white wire, my black wire that goes into the vacuum is fried and frayed right where it meets this L-shaped piece. I suspect it’s a goner unless someone has another thought….

  7. Has anybody found replacing the switch to be helpful? The wires were not fried on mine – all still appear intact. So I figure it’s the switch that is bad ($2 maybe?) or the motor ($?).
    Pipes were plugged for too long with vacuuming of a lot of dog hair from Chipper, my pooch.
    Will try replacing the switch.
    But if that doesn’t fix it, is it worth looking to replace the motor?
    Looks like a replacement vacuum is probably $135+.
    I’m kindof getting out of the ‘just toss it and buy a new one’ mentality, and trying to fix things first.

    Interesting where that takes the mind… why do we even have carpet? My coworker is always trying to convince me to re-do with tile. But I like carpet, and that means vacuuming it.


  8. Well, I can say now, replacing the switch is a good next step.
    My wires were okay, replacing the on/off switch fixed my probablem – about $4 from a local electronics store.

  9. Thanks for the update. It is good to know.

  10. I took the plate off to get to the switch, pain in the rear, two tork screws in back, then still managed to snap off the plastic things holding the top. Anyway, no wires fried, so took the wires off the switch and shorted them and it ran. Assumed it was the switch. Just for grins I reassembled the wires into the switch, and now the switch makes it turn on and off just fine. It had at least 2-3 hours to reset on its own and it did not, so I don’t know what made the difference, but it is working fine for now.

  11. Hi! My unit stopped working yesterday and would not reset, so, being good with electrical stuff I did some troubleshooting. After removing 4 screws I reached the on-off switch. With the unit unplugged (natch!!) I ohmed out the cable and the switch. Turns out the switch was bad. ALSO TURNS OUT THAT EUREKA PUT IN A SWITCH RATED AT 8 AMPS/125VAC AND THE RATING ON THE UNIT SAYS 12 AMPS. NO WONDER THE LITTLE PLASTIC SWITCH FINALLY GAVE OUT!!!

  12. My as1000 had simply dropped one of the connectors internally. I took it apart (had to buy 2 star drivers) and plugged the cable back in. Voila!

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